Source: www.fastbackropes.com

The difference between being fast and just catching

There are two very different styles of headers. One is the catcher who scores well, usually rides a nice horse, doesn’t miss much, seldom breaks the barrier, sets up his runs and wins by being consistent and not making mistakes.

The second style is a reacher who hits the barrier line, has lots of rope ability, possibly does not own a really nice horse and has learned to use his ability to overcome the lack of a good horse. This guy wins a lot of day monies and if he wins at a jackpot he wins first. But he’s not very consistent and makes a lot of mistakes.

When I started heading these were the two groups that most people fit in. There were guys that could catch and win and then the guys who could reach but struggled at the long score set ups.

When I was growing up and my dad was training a heel horse, he wanted the steers turned in the first forty feet of the arena. It didn’t matter what the steer was like, that’s where he wanted them turned and so I learned to rope fast. But when a customer was trying a heel horse, I was supposed to go catch, handle the steer and set things up for the heeler. That was good for me because it gave me a taste of both worlds – I had to be able to rope fast and also learned to go catch. If I missed when heading for a customer my dad would give me a look that did far more than any lecture and words spoken – so I tried very hard never to miss.

One of the reasons most guys from the east can reach is because of all the short score rodeos where they have to be some kind of four to win anything. Consequently they have a lot of range with their rope. The west brings more catchers because of the 18’ to 25’ feet boxes where they have to let the steer out and go run him down. That’s the way it is everywhere they go and they don’t get a chance to work on the short scores.

I recognized these different styles and realized very few people excelled at both.
That’s the problem with the two meeting in the middle. The east doesn’t have many long score rodeos and when those guys go out west they’re out of their element. It’s two totally different styles of roping. Everything about it is different and that’s why a lot of people struggle at being successful at both.

It’s important to be able to change your style and adapt to the situation. When you need to catch, use a smaller loop and run closer to the steer and let your horse do all the work. Your horse will dictate whether you win or lose.

To be fast, you’re going to hit the barrier, then fire and reach to where ever the steer is. You won’t rely on your horse’s speed as much but on how much control you have so he doesn’t duck. You’ll rely more on your arm and less on your horse and need to be able to operate in a small arena.

These are the two major heading styles that win. One is controlled and consistent; the other is creating your shot and being fast.

Checkout http://www.rodeohaven.com for fastback ropes

            Begin by brushing the leather with a soft brush to remove all the dirt from the cracks and crevices.  This can also be done by a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment.  It is important to remove all the dirt before oiling to prevent buildup.  If need be, use a toothbrush to get into the smallest spaces.

            Next, apply a cleaner with a damp sponge.  When choosing a cleaner, look for one that will clean without drying the leather.  You also want to avoid cleaners containing wax because it will darken your leather.  Wipe off any residue that will dry and crack the leather and then wait ten minutes before oiling your tack.  Be sure you allow the leather to dry naturally.  Do not use heat.

            Apply conditioner to slightly damp leather with a soft cloth or sponge.  As with cleaning, apply conditioner to both sides of the leather to get maximum absorption.  If the tack seems to absorb the oil relatively fast, apply a second coat.  Use only 100 % neatsfoot oil for conditioning.   Following these tips can extend the life and wear of your leather tack.  For more information, check out http://www.rodeohaven.com/tack

While some horse owners are content to let nature take its course, most like to help things along.  The easiest way (aside from letting the horses take care of it themselves)  is to curry your horse every day with a metal curry come using circular motions while brushing and going against the natural growth pattern of the hair.  Currying should be followed with brushing using a soft bristle brush.  To save yourself some laundry, keep a shirt out in the tack shed to wear during your grooming session.  If you would like a quicker course of action, you can shave the long hair off with clippers.  However, if you choose to shave your horse, you will need to be sure to pay close attention to the weather in your area and blanket your horse on cooler days and evenings.  Being robbed of hair will not allow your horse to adjust at its own pace so use caution.

Another common problem in spring is overheating.  Not only are most horses out of shape, they also are carrying more hair while you are doing normal summer exercises.  Be sure to leg your horse up gradually and pay close attention to their temperature.  Most important, be sure to give your horse an adequate cool down rather than just turning him out.  If you follow these guidelines, you will and your horse will have a healthy, happy spring!  For more information, check out www.rodeohaven.com.

          The tie in goat tying takes a great deal of practice.  Fast ties require smooth, fluid movements.  It is best to keep your head down as you tie to focus on wrapping the bones of the leg.  A lot of new goat tying competitors often develop the bad habit of moving their whole body as they tie.  This takes up more time than you would realize.  Focus your body movements to just your arms and hands.  The less the rest of you moves, the faster you will tie.  Be sure to tie your knot around the bottom of you legs.  Knots tied higher can loosen as the goat strains.

            The tools for goat tying is rather simple; all you need is a saddled horse and a goat string.  We have a wide choice of colors to choose from to help you find one you like.  You also might consider buying a goat tying dummy.  One could also be made from half a car tire with four pieces of wood hooked to it.  For more information, please visit http://www.rodeohaven.com/goattying.html

Calf roping horses are well trained and amazing athletes.  They are expected to work all on their own once the rider springs from their back.  The horse’s job is to keep the rope tight to discourage the calf from getting up and making it easier for the cowboy to tie.  It is not uncommon to see a horse backpedalling as fast as it can. The horse then stands quietly while the six seconds go by.  Because they have such a demanding job, it is important for them to be well protected.  Splint boots, bell boots, and skid boots are all need to protect the calf roping horse’s legs.

Calf ropers and their horses require the most rodeo equipment in any event.  In addition to the bridle, saddle and leg gear, they also need a neck rope, jerk line, and calf string.  It is challenging to keep everything from getting all tied up but comes more easily with practice.  We have the ropes all the calf roping contestants need from Fast Back, Cactus, and Classic. To purchase any of these fine products, please visit http://www.rodeohaven.com/calfroping.html

     One of the first things you need is the proper equipment.  Most barrel racing competitors prefer a light saddle because lighter weight means a faster run.  Next you need a bit and bridle that is comfortable to your horse and gives you control.  Most horses will want to take hold of the bit and run but you need to be able to rein them in and get them to gather themselves in between and around the barrels.  Training barrel racing reins can really help your horse to develop a good bend and flex, not only in their necks but in their whole bodies. 

Bending and flexing is a series of exercise that can be done anywhere.  Begin by setting your horse out straight.  After walking a few paces, reach halfway down the rein and bring your fist to your hip while applying pressure to your horse’s side with your heel.  Your horse will fight a little but do not release their head until your horse gives its head to you.  The moment that happens, release the rein.  Practice on both sides until your horse responds quickly and easily and your can see and feel their body curve around your leg.  Bending and flexing exercises will help them to slip around the barrels.  You also need to be careful that your horse doesn’t develop the habit of dropping a shoulder on the turn because that is a sure fire way to hit a barrel and add seconds to your time.  A lot of barrel racers also like to use barrel racing reins with extra braiding or knotting to increase their grip on the rein for better turns. Racing reins.

     Be sure your horse’s legs are protected.  You usually need shin splints and bell boots at least. If your horse has a really hard, deep stop, you might want to think about adding rear skid boots as well.  Using an over and under whip can really help to get a little extra speed out on the final run home. Following these steps will set you on your way to becoming a great barrel racer. If you would like more information, please visit www.rodeohaven.com

       As a beginning header, a good rope to try out would be the Mach III and the Mach III Plus by Fast Back.  This rope is used extensively by Speed Williams with the Mach III Plus designed especially for him.  It is longer than average for a head rope but that can really come in handy if you find you often have to reach for steers.  Fast Back has recently come out with a new 4-strand rope called the Instinct that is very smooth, light, and fast.  You could also consider the Ultimate 4, used by Clay Tryan.

          Heeler can also experiment between 3 and 4 strand ropes.  The Mach III is also a popular heeling rope.  It has a lot of body and lots of tip.  The Pink Patron is also a great rope for heelers.  Its vibrant color really helps it stand out so you can make sure you follow through with your loop.

            Finding one that feels right, moves in a comfortable way, and that lasts beyond a couple of throws.  Many ropers also neglect to take the weather into account when they are competing.  Cold temperatures and rain or snow can really affect how your ropes feels and performs. The Fast Back Pink Patron and Mach 3 really hold up the best against cold weather (cold weather being 40 degrees or less).  When roping in indoor arena during winter months, the humidity may cause your rope to become soft and have a “raggy” feeling.  In the summer, the heat can cause your rope to become stiffer than normal, making feel harder than you are used to. Ropes that stand up best in the summer are the Instinct, Ultimate 4, and the grabber, all made by Fast Back Ropes. 

 To purchase any of these quality ropes or any other rodeo equipment you need, check out http://www.rodeohaven.com/teamroping.html

For those new to team roping, we at RodeoHaven.com would like give you a starting point.  Team roping consists of a steer and two mounted competitors.  The steer is released from the chute and if the ropers leave before the steer gets a sufficient head start, they get a 5 second penalty added on to their time.  This is called breaking the barrier, a rope tied around the steer’s neck and across the header’s box.  The roper on the left side of the steer will rope the steer’s horns and turn at a right angle to the left.  After making the turn, the heeler will come in to rope both hind feet.  If either roper misses, they get no time.  If the heeler only catches one leg, another 5 seconds is added to their time.  Team roping is the only event in rodeo that requires or allows more than one person to compete for a score., team roping.

            Beginners need to have a few tools to get started.  Headers would want to buy an extra soft (XS) or and extra, extra soft (XXS) rope to begin with.  It will be pliable enough to allow you to develop the proper swing.  It is also a good idea to have a roping dummy to practice on.  A lot of team roping professionals will tell you that you need to rope your dummy between 50 – 100 times a day.  Swing your loop overhead in a smooth, flat motion, aim for the back of the steers head and release the loop.  When you release, stop you hand right where you threw the loop; your hand should be open, flat, and palm down. 

            Heelers will also want to start with a softer rope.  As you begin to twirl your loop, do so kind of on the left side of your body, always keeping your tip on the left side.  This will ensure that when you throw your loop, it will go under the steer.  Heeling is all about timing.  You want the tip of your loop to be at the lowest point as the steers legs are coming forward.  The lay of your loop is also very important; it should stand up against the steers legs with the bottom loop on the ground so the steer will jump right into it.

            It is also a good idea to wear a team roping glove to protect your hands from possible rope burns as you pull the slack from your rope and go to dally.    Heelers need to be careful not to go to the horn to fast or you will give the steer too much slack and they will slip out of your loop.  You saddle horn needs to be wrapped with rubber to keep your dally from slipping and need to be replaced frequently.   Be willing to try out different rope types and sizes until you find the one that works best for you. Be sure that your horse’s legs are protected with at least a pair of bell boots.  Following these simple tips will help you become a great team roper.  If you need any team roping supplies, check out rodeohaven.com for all your team roping needs.